I’ve always been intrigued by the snow monkeys who “take onsen” – especially after seeing Marsel van Oosten’s viral image of the macaque “checking his email” in the famous hot springs. When we figure out this unusual routine happens pretty close to Tokyo in a region referred to as the “Japanese Alps,” Todd and I are all in.

It’s about a mile hike up to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, through a lush forest on a well maintained trail.

The forest is marked with tree identifications along the way.

Once we climb all the way up to the hot springs, we find many families of monkeys scampering about and soaking in the hot water. They swim and play, groom each other, and enjoy the relaxing heat while the rest of us shiver with our cameras. We joke about how this really is a tourist destination for the monkeys to watch people.

About an hour after we arrive, a park ranger comes and builds a little bonfire. I have yet to see this happen at the Boiling River in Yellowstone. It is welcome for our stiff hands and cold toes.

The view from our hotel, Aburaya Tousen, looks over the town Yamanouchi and the Yudanaka river.

Leaving Yamanouchi with a dusting of fresh snow on very small vintage electric train took us through the mountain valleys and back to catch the Shinkansen at Nagano Station.

The next stop is Kyoto. We stay right downtown for the easy walking access to a variety of neighborhoods. One of the streets we discover is narrow, winding and full of tiny restaurants. We find a place with a sign out front that says “Voted Best Gyozas in Kyoto.” With that prompt, we walk in to discover they make gyozas (and nothing else, really) in a staggering variety. After sampling nearly every flavor, we basically roll back to the hotel with happy tummies.

We explore another part of the city, walk through the bamboo forest, see many temples and note how many people in Kyoto use bicycles as transport.

The sign says,” 3D Latte Art.” We MUST go in.

On to Tokyo. We stay in between Shibuya and Harajuku, birthplace of “kawaii” – the Cute movement, Karoake bars, Hello Kitty and the crazy scramble crossing.

Here we are looking down at the crossing from the upper floor Starbuck’s window. It’s mid morning, a very mellow time for central Shibuya.

Did somebody say noodles?

One of my favorite places we discover in the area is the Meiji Shrine and park. We’re lucky to see the last of the fall colors even though it’s the first week of December!

You can find more photos on my Instagram feed! Thanks for reading!